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Herb-based offerings - Advantage India
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Dr Gaurav Pathak & Dr Rachana
April 01 , 2015
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Introduction
Using natural ingredients in cosmetics is emerging as a strong trend not only in India but across the world.
Aloe vera, olive oil, jojoba oil, honey, chandan, kesar, turmeric and milk protein are the most common natural ingredients known to be added to many cosmetic products. Many of these additives are guided by their use in Indian Ayurvedic medicine and Indian traditional medicine.
Cosmetics and Ayurveda
Ayurveda, which in Sanskrit approximately means "science of life," is the traditional philosophy regarding health in India. It is believed that if the inner mind is beautiful it will show on body and face. This ancient form of medicine has emphasised on the balance between body, mind and nature. Ayurveda is the most widely used traditional medicine system. A typical Ayurvedic formula may contain one or more than 20 medicinal herbs and spices, selected from among the 2,700 plants used in India. In fact, the Indian ministry of health officially recognises 418 plants.
Use of chandan, ghrit kumari (Aloe vera), haldi (turmeric) and kesar in different cosmetics has Ayurvedic basis. Their medical and beauty benefits are known since ancient times. Natural constituents are added to the cosmetics to get the desired effect for example, turmeric, chandan and kesar are reported to have effect on the fairness of the skin so, they have been used even in modern day fairness creams, soaps and lotions.
Need of the hour and Indian market
Indians have become more image-conscious due to growing income levels, corporatisation, changing urban lifestyle and increasing consumer awareness. All these factors have led to rapid expansion of cosmetic industry in India. Most of the top-selling brands in India are the same as in Europe or USA. India is a market composed of 1,200 million people, with experts predicting that by 2028 it will have overtaken China as the world's most populous country. However, "only" 20 million Indians use branded cosmetics and as said above increasing spending power has made cosmetic industry one of the most rapidly growing industries in India, providing significant marketing opportunities in India. Indian cosmetics industry stood at an estimated $2.5 billion in 2008 and is too expected to grow at 17%, each year.
Cosmetic brands in India
In India, cosmetics largely consist of home fragrances, deodorants, shaving and grooming, soaps, hand and nail care, body lotion, moisturiser, lip care, face treatment, face wash and scrubs and so on. HUL, P&G, Vicco, Dabur, Fair&Lovely and Pond’s are few of the major cosmetic brands in India. The Indian cosmetic sector can be largely divided into two parts i.e., chemical-based cosmetics which are largely sold by brands such as Pond’s, Lakme, and HUL and herbal or organic-based cosmetics, Vicco and Dabur and Emami are prominent brands in this segment.
Natural versus chemical cosmetics
The modern cosmetics industry has been mainly based upon synthetic or processed ingredients that are generally more stable, practical and economical but these days, natural products are preferred over synthetic products in India as well as in the West. Brands like HUL are majorly into chemical-based cosmetics with Aviance and Ayush. Aviance has both chemical as well as herbal range. Aviance’s organic range includes brands like Nature Coconut shampoo. Ayush has totally scientific organic therapies for beauty whereas brands like Dabur, Vicco, Himalaya, and Emami are almost entirely organic in nature.
The motivating factors
There are several motivating factors for the growing cosmetic industry in India. The growing purchasing power of the middle-classes, the growing interest of men in their personal appearance and the influence of Western trends are the major factors responsible for this growth. In recent years, the Indian cosmetic market has turned back towards well-known traditional and natural ingredients that have been used for centuries. India is also developing a niche in the international market for natural cosmetics.
Green cosmetics
Green products are produced in an environmentally friendly and socially responsible manner so ‘green beauty’ and ‘green washing’ are becoming the trends in the world of cosmetics. Many of these substances are equitably traded as well, giving the producer a good price for his product. It has been seen that the trend of cosmetics has not decreased in highly technological sector. It is towards natural and highly technological at the same time.
The sophistication of the active ingredients is increasing, and is now based on truly scientific research. Even traditional natural products are being tested scientifically and proven ingredients only are being used with the cosmetics. The action of substances can be demonstrated very clearly nowadays. Historic cosmetics are being reinvestigated and active ingredients are isolated with innovative processes, using microwaves, supercritical CO2 treatment and zeta fraction technology. Biobased solvents and white biotechnology complete the spectrum of new green cosmetics.
Biobased Cosmetics: Surfactant and preservatives
An important category within cosmetics is the class of surfactants: detergents, hydrating agents, emulsifiers and foaming agents. In 2012, the world market for these products amounted to 220 million kg, with an expected growth of 3% annually. The trend towards green cosmetics reinforces the use of biobased surfactants. In general, these are very little toxic, eco-toxic or aggressive, and excellently biodegradable. Like alkyl polyglucosides and lauryl glucoside, already widely used in shampoos, bath foams, lotions, and skin care products.
Things are a little more complicated in the area of preservatives. There is no universal biobased preserving agent, whereas many much-used preservatives like parabens, triclosan and MIT (methylisothiazolinone) are under attack. The industry is actively looking for biobased substitutes like sorbic acid and its derivatives, pentylene glycol (from maize or sugar cane) and salicylic acid from Gaultheria procumbens (eastern teaberry).
Examples of latest technology and advancements in the area of cosmetics with natural products
There are certain natural products which people believe are as safe, but are found to be allergic or toxic to few individuals. For example traditionally produced oat products are sometimes produce allergic reactions. These drawbacks can be overcome by using modern growing and extraction technologies. Better oat products, lacking above drawbacks and having anti-inflammatory flavonoids, immunomodulating saposonides and hydrating oligosaccharides are being produced by The Pierre Fabre group, a company based in the Southwest of France by using latest technologies. Other products on which this company is working is an improved version of rhamnose, a monosaccharide nowadays used in luxury products (e.g. Vichy) against skin ageing; the new product named TriXéra+ is expected to counteract irritations and allergies.
Conclusion
Natural products are believed to be safe and effective and so have been preferred by the customers over synthetic products. Latest technology and “scientific data with proofs” had given a solid base to explore new heights in the area of natural products and cosmetics. India has vast knowledge in the area of herbal use and it is also scientifically sound now. Indian scientists can use the already available knowledge and experience and can take over the entire world market in this sector. Online availability of the products has opened the global market to us. Now we have to put some efforts to convince the consumers following the current "green wave," to believe and decide that Ayurvedic products are better for their health, beauty, inner balance and the fragrant and beautiful future of the planet. We need to exploit this opportunity and distribute the gift of nature to the entire world.
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References
[1]. Advertising Age; 6/20/2011, Vol. 82 Issue 25, p1-30, 2p.
[2]. Data Analysis, with SPSS, version 16, CENGAGE LEARNING, Carver. Nash.
[3]. Global Cosmetic Industry; Jan2012, Vol. 180 Issue 1, p44-48, 4p, 1 Illustration
[4]. headlinesindia.mapsofindia.com/.../ herbal-products-driving-indian-c.
(Dr Rachana is associate professor biotechnology, A-10, JIIT, and Dr Gaurav Pathak is sr officer, quality assurance, Glenmark Pharmaceutical Ltd, Nashik, Maharashtra)
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